Oh What a Day(s)

Started with a quick 2 hour jaunt from OC to south(near Mexico) SD. Spurred by an unquenched surf craving due to a lackluster winter, I took off around 1 PM. Made it from Oso to Palm in an hour and 15 minutes. I felt like God was parting cars similarly to when He parted the Red Sea for Moses. Outside of Divine intervention, how else could one make such miraculous time on the 5 Freeway during a weekday afternoon? If you are asking yourself why would God clear cars out so this guy could surf...STOP RIGHT THERE! Don't question His ways. Sometimes he is beyond mysterious...jk

When I landed at the lookout street between apartment buildings a catchy Mick Jagger tune started spinning through my head. "No sir, these waves right here cannot provide any 'satisfaction.'"  Onward to lookout spot number 2.

Conditions less than a mile away were epically glassy for the time of day. What the cleanliness made up for was the lack of shape. These waves are what my friends and I call "1 hit wonders." You gotta be super lucky to get a turn or an air off. So be it. Surf was calling and it was head high.

Besides, how often do we see shouldery surf at our SoCal beachbreak. Very seldomly. But when corners appear they are met with shallow tubing sandbars. Seems like a fair trade off to me.

I awaited my engineering technician surf pal. Anybody who says really smart people aren't good surfers has not met an engineer who can surf well...aka "my friend." His oceanic analytical observations translated into a functioning and coordinated human body result in a much higher good wave count than your average joe. That is why he has been dubbed the infamous  "Above-average Joe."

I on the other hand, suffer from average athletic ability, easily faltering confidence, and sweltering pride. I blame it on all on the genes. If I only could have had Laird Hamilton as my father(just kidding dad).

The air is cold but the sun is out. Behind the houses and protected from the light onshores I'm almost convinced it's summer. The first gentle step into the cold ocean water confirms otherwise. Yup, water feels like december water.

 Surf sessions may be a bit chillier and less comfterable. But the waves are bigger(supposed to be), crowds are thinner, and beaches more deserted. Seems like a fair trade off to me.