Yesterday we had a rare offshore event at the local beachbreak. Waves were crisp and realing. I had a couple of lefts where I spent multiple seconds in the tube. Didn't make any though. A couple rights with some multiple snaps in the pocket.
Also was accompanied by a kid who kept paddling right on my friend's and I's ass. Not to all kid's- do not follow people around the lineup. It is asking for a fight. :)
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Thursday, December 15, 2011
GrumpTard
Many do not know what a "GrumpTard" is. Please... let me explain. You see, at nearly all highly coveted surf spots there are older men who have devoted much of their lives to that specific break. Most of these men grew up surfing the spot in the 70's, 80's, and 90's. Up until the early 90's, violence and a smaller surf population kept these special breaks from getting too crowded. In turn, these "GrumpTards" were just normal human beings privy to uncrowded good waves. Somewhere through their decades of surf experience though, this privy transformed to entitlement. Rather than being fortunate to surf good empty waves and viewing it as a blessing, they now deserved them. It's the result of this transformation that creates the dubious "Grumptards."
The reason I bring this up is because I believe i have discovered an odd new species of Grumptard; the likes of which few have even heard of. Most Grumptards are hostile to visiters that are not locals. They establish the rules which outsiders are supposed to follow and if a visitor breaks those rules they get dealt with. This is standard GrumpTard practice.
The Grumptard which I have discovered does not follow this practice. Instead he targets people like himself who have devoted and sacrificed much to learn the spot. This author does not know if the Grumptard regrets the choices made during his own life and is trying to discouraging others from making the same mistakes. This author finds the Grumptards methods otherwise impractical and ineffective in increasing his wave count. Regardless, it is my duty to spread awareness.
Oh What a Day(s)
Started with a quick 2 hour jaunt from OC to south(near Mexico) SD. Spurred by an unquenched surf craving due to a lackluster winter, I took off around 1 PM. Made it from Oso to Palm in an hour and 15 minutes. I felt like God was parting cars similarly to when He parted the Red Sea for Moses. Outside of Divine intervention, how else could one make such miraculous time on the 5 Freeway during a weekday afternoon? If you are asking yourself why would God clear cars out so this guy could surf...STOP RIGHT THERE! Don't question His ways. Sometimes he is beyond mysterious...jk
When I landed at the lookout street between apartment buildings a catchy Mick Jagger tune started spinning through my head. "No sir, these waves right here cannot provide any 'satisfaction.'" Onward to lookout spot number 2.
Conditions less than a mile away were epically glassy for the time of day. What the cleanliness made up for was the lack of shape. These waves are what my friends and I call "1 hit wonders." You gotta be super lucky to get a turn or an air off. So be it. Surf was calling and it was head high.
Besides, how often do we see shouldery surf at our SoCal beachbreak. Very seldomly. But when corners appear they are met with shallow tubing sandbars. Seems like a fair trade off to me.
I awaited my engineering technician surf pal. Anybody who says really smart people aren't good surfers has not met an engineer who can surf well...aka "my friend." His oceanic analytical observations translated into a functioning and coordinated human body result in a much higher good wave count than your average joe. That is why he has been dubbed the infamous "Above-average Joe."
I on the other hand, suffer from average athletic ability, easily faltering confidence, and sweltering pride. I blame it on all on the genes. If I only could have had Laird Hamilton as my father(just kidding dad).
The air is cold but the sun is out. Behind the houses and protected from the light onshores I'm almost convinced it's summer. The first gentle step into the cold ocean water confirms otherwise. Yup, water feels like december water.
Surf sessions may be a bit chillier and less comfterable. But the waves are bigger(supposed to be), crowds are thinner, and beaches more deserted. Seems like a fair trade off to me.
When I landed at the lookout street between apartment buildings a catchy Mick Jagger tune started spinning through my head. "No sir, these waves right here cannot provide any 'satisfaction.'" Onward to lookout spot number 2.
Conditions less than a mile away were epically glassy for the time of day. What the cleanliness made up for was the lack of shape. These waves are what my friends and I call "1 hit wonders." You gotta be super lucky to get a turn or an air off. So be it. Surf was calling and it was head high.
Besides, how often do we see shouldery surf at our SoCal beachbreak. Very seldomly. But when corners appear they are met with shallow tubing sandbars. Seems like a fair trade off to me.
I awaited my engineering technician surf pal. Anybody who says really smart people aren't good surfers has not met an engineer who can surf well...aka "my friend." His oceanic analytical observations translated into a functioning and coordinated human body result in a much higher good wave count than your average joe. That is why he has been dubbed the infamous "Above-average Joe."
I on the other hand, suffer from average athletic ability, easily faltering confidence, and sweltering pride. I blame it on all on the genes. If I only could have had Laird Hamilton as my father(just kidding dad).
The air is cold but the sun is out. Behind the houses and protected from the light onshores I'm almost convinced it's summer. The first gentle step into the cold ocean water confirms otherwise. Yup, water feels like december water.
Surf sessions may be a bit chillier and less comfterable. But the waves are bigger(supposed to be), crowds are thinner, and beaches more deserted. Seems like a fair trade off to me.
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